The materials used and the processes tools go through during manufacturing play a crucial role in determining their quality. For steel or carbide tools, additional elements are often incorporated to enhance strength, durability, and wear resistance. Below, we break down some of these additives and manufacturing methods, and how they contribute to superior tools.

Steel Additives

High-quality precision hand tools often include steel additives that improve performance and longevity. Here are some commonly used additives and their benefits:

• Chromium – Increases hardness, wear resistance, and corrosion resistance.

• Cobalt – Enhances toughness at high temperatures, helping the steel retain its edge during drilling or cutting.

• Copper – Improves toughness, yield strength, and corrosion resistance.

• Manganese – Enhances hardening for a tougher, more impact-resistant steel.

• Molybdenum – Boosts impact resistance, tensile strength, and elasticity, reducing the risk of breakage.

• Nickel – Adds impact resistance, tensile strength, elasticity, and corrosion resistance.

• Vanadium – Improves toughness, resistance to mechanical stress, and grain structure for a stronger, more durable tool.

• Tungsten – Produces a fine, dense matrix for toughness and strength and helps maintain hardness at high temperatures.

Carbide Additives

Carbide tools use advanced, fine-grain, spray-dried carbide with additives to control grain growth, improve corrosion resistance, and maximize wear resistance. Key additives include:

• Tantalum – Maintains hardness and strength at high temperatures and resists cratering, seizing, and galling.

• Tantalum Carbide (TaC) & Tantalum Niobium Carbide (TaNbC) – Inhibit grain growth, maintaining edge strength during high-heat cutting.

• Titanium – Enhances red hardness, wear resistance, and lubricity, allowing chips to slide with less heat and friction. Ideal for high-speed machining.

• Molybdenum – Acts as a catalyst in manufacturing to produce tougher, more consistent parts.

• Vanadium – Improves high-temperature stability and creates finer carbide crystals for superior durability.

HIPed Carbide (Hot Isostatic Pressing)

HIP (Hot Isostatic Pressing) is a process where steel or tungsten carbide is heated just below its melting point under extremely high pressure. This:

• Eliminates voids and microscopic holes.

• Produces a denser, more consistent grain structure.

• Greatly improves strength and wear resistance.

Casting vs. Forging

• Casting – Molten material is poured into a mold. While inexpensive, casting can trap air bubbles and create inconsistencies in the tool.

• Forging – Material is heated and shaped by force, which removes air pockets and aligns the grain structure. Forged tools are stronger, more consistent, and more durable than cast tools.

Hot Rolling vs. Forging

Steel is often produced via continuous casting and rolling to make sheets or plates. However, rolling can introduce internal stresses, causing steel to bend over time. The best precision tools are either stress-relieved through heat treatment or forged, ensuring they remain straight and stable.

Machining vs. Casting

• Casting is cheaper but produces less consistent tools.

• Forging and machining ensure a solid, void-free tool body. For example:

  • High-quality router bits are forged and machined for maximum strength and precision.

  • The best screwdriver shafts are forged and polished, creating a smooth, safe, and highly effective surface.

In short, high-quality tools are the result of careful material selection, precise manufacturing, and attention to detail. Forging, machining, and advanced steel or carbide additives ensure tools that last longer, perform better, and withstand the toughest tasks.

The last couple of weeks we’ve been rebuilding equipment.

I’ve been in this business for 30 years, and I have a pretty good idea what can go wrong.

Of course, what can go wrong is everything.

We have several belt brazing ovens. The flights needed to be replaced, and while we were at it I decided to replace the chain as well. I had the supplier come out to the shop and sent them back with one of the old chains so we could be absolutely certain we ordered the exact replacement.

Instead, they sold me a standard length chain that turned out to be too long.

That wasn’t the only surprise.

The 1/8-inch holes on the flights came in undersized and had to be drilled out. One set of tubular heating elements had been assembled with a missing nut, so those had to be rebuilt as well.

Anyone who has been doing this kind of work for a while knows the rule: plan for things to go wrong.

And then plan for a few more things on top of that.

Because when you start rebuilding equipment that has been running for years, surprises are almost guaranteed.

Bondhus hex head wrench

The Value of Good Tools

One thing I’ve always believed in is having the right tools and parts on hand when situations like this come up.

During this rebuild, our Bondhus hand tools were a big help.

There’s something very satisfying about using a high-quality tool that fits properly. When the tool slides into a fastener cleanly and engages solidly, the work goes much more smoothly.

Some of the fittings we had to remove were inside an oven and had been there for years, running at about 1600°F day after day. At those temperatures, parts tend to become firmly attached to each other.

This was one of those situations where I was pulling hard on the tools with both hands.

That’s when you really appreciate good steel.

Cheap tools round off. Good tools hold their shape and transfer the torque where you need it.

Lessons Learned Over 30 Years

Over 30 years I’ve made plenty of mistakes. Fortunately, I’ve learned a few things from them as well.

Two lessons stand out.

First, high-quality hand tools are essential. When a machine is down and production is suffering, the tool in your hand often gets used hard. That’s exactly when you need tools that won’t twist, round off, or fail.

Second, I’ve learned the beauty of clear plastic zip bags with a white label block.

Whenever I’m working on a machine, the parts immediately go into a labeled bag. Something simple like:

“8-32 machine screws – Conveyor 5.”

It sounds like a small thing, but it prevents a lot of confusion later.

When you’re in the middle of a rebuild with parts scattered around, good labeling can save hours of frustration.

Felo tough Pliers

Expect Problems With Ordered Parts

There’s one more thing I’ve learned.

No matter how careful you are when ordering parts, something will go wrong eventually.

A chain will be the wrong length.
Holes will be undersized.
A component will arrive missing a piece.

It’s just part of working in manufacturing.

That’s why experience matters—and why having the right tools, spare parts, and a little patience makes such a difference.

Because when everything goes wrong, those are the things that get the equipment running again.

Mortise and tenon joints are regarded as one of the toughest types of joinery you can use for your woodworking projects. These joints are often associated with fine furniture making due the critical strength and stress resistance as well as quality.

There are several types of mortise and tenon joints, here are a few of them: stopped/blind, through, angled and wedged. All of these different joints are made up of the same parts: a mortise (a recess cut into a piece of wood that accepts a tenon) and a tenon (a tongue at the end of a board that fits into a mortise).

As a rule of thumb, tenons are generally 1/3 the thickness of the work-piece and up to 3″ long. This proportion will help to maximize the shear strength of the tenon without compromising the strength mortise walls. Mortise and tenon joints should interlock snugly without binding. It should be just loose enough to permit a thin, even glue bond along the full joint.

Make sure to cut the mortise first, before the tenon. It is always easier to cut the tenon to match the existing mortise then trying to cut a mortise to fit a tenon. Here are 3 easy ways to make a clean, precise mortise cut.

Cutting a Mortise Using a Drill Press and Chisel

Install a brad point or Forstner drill bit into your drill press with a diameter equal to the planned thickness of the mortise. Make sure to set the depth stop to equal the depth of the mortise. Align the bit with the layout lines at one end of the mortise. Boring on hole at a time, move the work-piece so the holes will be next to or overlapping each other. Continue using this method until you reach the end of the outline.

Using a sharp wood chisel, remove the wood waste to clean and square up the mortise walls. You may need to use several chisels of different sizes to effectively clean out the waste. Using your chisel at an angle will help you control the cut, paring away the waste as you work.

Cutting a Mortise with a Router Table

Choose a straight bit the same diameter as the planned thickness of the mortise. Set the depth and mark the start and end points for the mortise on the face of your work-piece. Holding the work-piece against the fence adjust the stock so one end is resting on the table and the other end is tipped over the bit. Position your work-piece so when it is lowered, the bit will make contact in the mortise area.

Once the router is turned on, lower the stock onto the bit until it is flat on the table. Start to feed it through the bit until the reference line on the board face closer to you lines up with the bit alignment mark closest to you. Feed the work-piece  in the opposite direction until you are finished with the cut.

Cutting a Mortise with a Plunge Router

First lay out an outline for the mortise on your work-piece. Fit a straight bit into your plunge router, then attach a guide block to the router base to assure the bit will be centered over the mortise.

Make sure to clamp stop blocks at each end of the cut. Set the depth on the router so the bit will plunge to the mortise depth. With the work-piece secured, plunge the bit into the wood to make the mortise cut. Use a chisel to square the ends of the cut if needed.

Making a mortise cut can be an easy and clean process. The most important rule of thumb is to use quality stock and superior tools for your fine woodworking needs.

Need hard to find tooling? Let us help! We are your one stop shop for everything you need no matter how tough to find! CUSTOM router bits, saw blades, carbide tooling, AND MORE! We truly believe in working for and with our customers to strive for 100% satisfaction every time.

Never feel the need to settle for anything less than exactly what you want. Whether you’re working on custom cabinetry or are tired of modifying a saw blade for your needs, Carbide Processors will work hard to get you a reasonable price on high-quality tooling. Our fabricators are top-notch and work directly with us to ensure that the part you need is the part you get.

Even if you’re just trying to track down a tool – don’t waste time calling hardware stores or browsing for hours online. Just give us a call and let us find it for you! You can always expect friendly, helpful service without any pressure. So often we will get calls from customers at their wits end because they’ve searched high and low for a part that we’re able to find or quote in a matter of minutes. Even tooling that is “out of production”, like brad point drill bits, counterbores, countersinks, and forstner bits.

Let us partner with you to make your project go smoothly from start to finish and give you the desired finish the first time. With over 30 years in the business we pride ourselves rarely ever coming across a tool that we can’t find or make – stop with the headache and let us do the hard work for you!

CUSTOM TOOL ORDER FORMS: Saw Blades, Band Saw Blades, Router Bits, Carbide Parts

Two thoughts come to mind. First is the hamburger analogy. When I go
to the bank I drive right through hamburger row. There are maybe a
dozen or more franchise restaurants, many of them selling hamburgers
in one form or another.   When I just need to refuel I will buy one
from a chain.  When I want a really good hamburger I drive over the
hill to Marcie’s where the patties are hand formed and cooked to
order.  There are a lot of things that make Marcie’s Burger much
better than a chain burger.

If you are good at anything, then you understand how the process effects the quality of the end result.  If you are a good cook then you understand the importance of selecting really good ingredients. You understand the importance of good equipment and you really understand the importance of years of experience.

If you are a good woodworker then you carefully select the wood for
your project instead of taking whatever’s on top of the pile. Your
table saw and fence are aligned to cut straight and true. Your saw
blade is sharp.  You know how to feed the wood so you get a clean cut
without burning.  You use quality tools and equipment becuase that will ensure you get the best results.

If you are a machinist you understand the difference in metals. You
understand that different metals require different cutting techniques.
 Different kinds of cuts may require different machines. You
understand the importance of good bearings and tight spindles. You
understand the importance of a flat tabletop and accurate instruments.

If you are a cook, machinist, woodworker, golfer, fishermen, hunter or
anything else then you can develop a long list of what needs to be
done to get geat results.

This same process applies to tools.  Tool manufacturers that make quality tools choose the materials for their tools carfully.  They apply great ingenuity and experience when executing their tools and creating new tool designs.  They use the best equipment.  They use a process that yields the best results, which are really great, high quality tools.

 A top-quality tool will give you better cuts, longer.  Manufacturers that produce top quality tools are consistant in their manufacturing so that every tool you buy from them will be just like the last tool you bought. If you have ever replaced a
tool in the middle of a job with one that had exactly the same
specifications but cut differently than you understand why this can be
extremely important.

We understand the importance of the tools you use, which is why we only sell what we belive to be exceptionally high quality tools.  We now have well over 18,000 tools including router bits from Whiteside, Vortex, Southeast Tool; Router Tables from Incra and Woodpecker; Saw blades from Tenryu, Popular, and our Custom Saw Blades and hand tools from Mayhew, Wiha, Wera, and Bondhus.

You can spend a lifetime replacing cheap tools, or you can invest in quality tools that last a lifetime. At Carbide Processors, we believe that buying tools isn’t just a purchase—it’s an investment in reliability and craftsmanship.

I recently spoke with a tool enthusiast who shared that he had just repaired his favorite pair of German-made pliers, which he had owned for over 20 years. After a minor repair, they were still performing as good as new. That’s the difference that quality makes.

What Makes a Tool Truly Quality

To ensure you’re getting a tool that will last, it’s important to understand the manufacturing process. Tool-making is truly an art, and the care put into every step shows in the final product:

• Material – High-quality alloys are used in the steel to maximize strength and durability.

• Forming – Whether a tool is machined, cast, or drop-forged, the method affects the tool’s integrity and lifespan.

• Precision – Tight tolerances in machining reduce the risk of stripping or damaging fasteners.

We carefully research every tool we sell to make sure we bring you only the best of the best. Manufacturers like Wiha, Bondhus, and Wera are meticulous at every step—from the handle design to the precision of the working parts.

Spotlight on Leading Brands

Bondhus Tools

• Made with Protanium Steel, making them exceptionally tough.

• Machined to the tightest tolerances for the best fit, minimizing the risk of stripping or breaking fasteners.

• Finished with chrome plating or Pro-Guard Finish to resist corrosion and rust.

When you invest in tools from Carbide Processors, you’re not just buying a tool—you’re buying reliability, longevity, and craftsmanship that will serve you for decades.

Problem 1: Premature Band Saw Blade Breakage- Straight break indicates fatigue.

Cause of the problem:

• Incorrect band saw blade- teeth too coarse
• Blade tension too high
• Side guides too tight
• Damaged or misadjusted band saw blade guides
• Excessive feed
• Incorrect cutting fluid
• Wheel diameter too small for band saw blade
• Band saw blade rubbing on wheel flanges
• Teeth in contact with work before starting saw
• incorrect blade speed

Solutions:

• Use finer tooth pitch
• Reduce band saw blade tension
• Check side guide clearance
• Check all guides for alignment/damage
• Reduce feed pressure
• Check coolant
• Use thinner blade
• Adjust wheel alignment
• Allow 1/2″ clearance before starting cut
• Increase or decrease blade speed.

Problem 2: Premature Dulling of Teeth

Cause of the Problem:

• Teeth pointing in the wrong direction/ band saw blade mounted backwards
• Improper or no blade break-in
• Hard spots in material
• Material work hardened
• Improper coolant
• Improper coolant concentration
• Speed too high
• Feed too light
• Teeth too small

Solutions:

• Install band saw blade correctly.  If teeth are facing the wrong direction, flip blade inside out.
• Break in blade properly (maintain proper blade speed for the material being cut).  Reduce blade feed pressure or feed rate by 50% for the first 50 to 100 square inches of material cut.  Gradually increase feed pressure or feed rate after break-in to target proper feed rate.
• Check for hardness, or hard spots like scale or flame cut areas
• Increase feed pressure or feed rate
• Check coolant type and coolant mixture
• Check recommended blade speed
• Increase feed pressure
• Increase tooth size

Problem 3: Inaccurate Cut

Cause of the Problem:

• Tooth set damage
• Excessive feed pressure
• Improper tooth size
• Cutting fluid not applied evenly
• Guides worn loose
• Insufficient blade tension

Solutions:

• Check for worn set on one side of blade
• Reduce feed pressure
• Check Tooth size chart (Tooth Size chart)
• Check coolant nozzles
• Tighten or replace guides, check for proper alignment
• Adjust to recommended tension

Problem 4: Band Leading in Cut

Cause of the Problem:

• Over-feed
• Insufficient blade tension
• Tooth set damage
• Guide arms loose or set too far apart
• Chips not being cleaned from gullets
• Teeth too small

Solutions:

• Reduce feed force
• Adjust recommended tension
• Check material for hard inclusions
• Position arms as close to work as possible and tighten
• Check chip brush
• Increase tooth size

Problem 5: Chip Welding

Cause of the Problem:

• Insufficient coolant flow
• Wrong coolant concentration
• Excessive speed and/ or pressure
• Tooth size too small
• Chip brush not working

Solutions:

• Check coolant level and flow
• Check coolant ratio
• Reduce speed and/or pressure
• Use coarse tooth pitch
• Repair or replace chip brush

Problem 6: Teeth Fracture- Back of tooth indicates work spinning in clamps

Cause of the Problem:

• Incorrect speed and/or feed
• Incorrect blade pitch
• Saw guides not adjusted properly
• Chip brush not working
• Work spinning or moving in vise

Solutions:

• Check the cutting chart (cutting chart)
• Check tooth size chart (tooth size chart)
• Adjust or replace saw guides
• Repair or replace chip brush
• Check bundle configuration/adjust vise pressure

Problem 7: Irregular Break

Cause of the Problem:

• Indexing out of sequence
• Material loose in vice

Solutions:

• Check proper machine movement
• Check vise or clamp

Problem 8: Teeth Stripping

Cause of the Problem:

• Feed pressure too high
• Tooth stuck in cut
• Improper or insufficient coolant
• Incorrect tooth size
• Hard spots in material
• Work spinning in vise- lose nest or bundle
• Band saw blade speed too slow
• Blade teeth running backwards
• Chip brush not working

Solutions:

• Reduce feed pressure
• Do not enter old cut with a new blade
• Check coolant flow and concentration
• Check tooth size chart (tooth size chart)
• Check material for hard inclusions
• Check clamping pressure- be sure work is held firmly
• Increase blade speed- see (cutting chart)
• Reverse blade (turn inside out)
• Repair or replace chip brush

Problem 9: Wear on Back of Band Saw Blades

Cause of the Problem:

• Excessive feed pressure
• Insufficient blade tension
• Back-up guide roll frozen, damaged or worn
• Band saw blade rubbing on wheel flange

Solutions:

• Decrease feed pressure
• Increase blade tension and readjust guides
• Repair or replace back-up roll or guide
• Adjust wheel cant

Problem 10: Rough cut (Washboard surface, Vibration and or chatter)

Cause of the Problem:

• Dull or damaged blade
• Incorrect speed or feed
• Insufficient blade support
• Incorrect tooth pitch
• Insufficient coolant

Solutions:

• Replace with new blade
• Increase speed or decrease feed
• Move guide arms as close as possible to the work
• Use finer pitch band saw blade
• Check coolant flow

Problem 11: Wear Lines, Loss of set

Cause of the Problem:

• Saw guide inserts or wheel flange are riding on teeth
• Insufficient blade tension
• Hard spots in material
• Back-up guide worn

Solutions:

• Check machine manual for correct blade with
• Tension blade properly
• Check material for inclusions
• Replace guide

Problem 12: Twisted Blade- Profile Sawing

Cause of the problem:

• Blade binding in cut
• Side guides too tight
• Radius too small for blade width
• Work not firmly held
• Erratic coolant flow
• Excessive blade tension

Solutions:

• Decrease feed pressure
• Adjust side guide gap
• Use narrower blade
• Check clamping pressure
• Check coolant nozzles
• Decrease blade tension

Problem 13: Blade wear- Teeth Blued

Cause of the Problem:

• Incorrect band saw blade
• Incorrect feed or speed
• Improper or insufficient coolant

Solutions:

• Use coarser tooth pitch
• Increase feed or decrease speed
• Check coolant flow

What Causes Band Saw Drift?

Band saw drift occurs because of subtle differences in the set and sharpness of the teeth from one side of the blade to the other. Some woodworkers also believe heat plays a role: as the saw blade cuts, the front of the blade may heat up and expand slightly more than the back, causing it to warp and deviate during cutting.

When resawing, accounting for drift is essential. If not managed, it can prevent you from achieving even, uniform cuts. Despite the many theories on what causes drift, most experts agree on one point: proper fence adjustments are key to overcoming it.

Method 1: Compensate Rather Than Follow the Drift

One approach is to stop trying to “follow” the drift and instead make adjustments that prevent it from affecting your cut. Key steps include:

1. Upgrade blade tension – Install a stronger blade-tensioning spring to keep the blade taut.

2. Square the fence – Set your fence square to the band saw blade and clamp the outfeed side to the table.

3. Install precise blade guides – Use ball-bearing guides and adjust them so there is no clearance between the guides and the blade.

4. Use a custom jig – Make a simple jig from a block of wood, a couple of nuts, a bearing, and a hinge (similar to a farm gate hinge) to keep the cut stable.

This method worked well in the author’s shop, but results can vary depending on your specific band saw and workshop setup.

Method 2: Adjust the Fence to Match the Drift

Another common strategy is to adjust the fence to match the drift angle:

1. Ensure your band saw is properly set up with the correct tension, sharp blade, and accurately adjusted blade guides.

2. Measure the drift angle using a bevel square.

3. Set your fence to the same angle using a jig, so your cut naturally follows the drift.

This method essentially “pre-programs” your fence to compensate for drift, allowing for consistent resawing. Here’s a video that demonstrates one way to do this.

http://youtu.be/JNsLNJsMj0o

Bandsaw (Band Saw) Blade Brazing

Six Easy Steps

1. Clean and bevel the blade ends
2.  Clamp blade ends to the fixture
3. Spread the flux
4. Braze
5. Anneal
6. Remove excess alloy

Size of Blade

With a very small, narrow blade it may be possible to join the two ends by soldering.  Soldering occurs below 800 F.  (Other temperatures are sometimes given but they are all in this range.)  Soldering is low temperature and typically makes a soft, weak joint.

With larger blade and with blades where a strong joint is needed you will braze.

Selecting a Solder or Braze Alloy

You will need a “silver solder” or “silver based braze alloy”.

Typically solders have something like 3 to 5% Silver in them.  Braze alloys have a silver content somewhere around 50%.

There are typically four alloys that work well.  They are sold under various names.  I have included the BAg numbers as these are the official AWS (American Welding Society) designations.  You can typically identify the alloy from a supplier based on the number sued.  E.g.  Easy Flo 3 is a Bag-3 alloy.  50Ni2 is a 50% silver with 2% Nickel.

These alloys melt over a range.  The solidus is the highest temperature where they could be considered a solid.  The liquidus is where they are officially a liquid.    It is typicvally good practice to melt the braze alloy to a point about 50 F over the liquidus.

1. BAg-3; 50% Silver with Cadmium 1170 solidus to 1270 liquidus.  Strongest braze joints.  The historic favorite.  Easy to use and strong joints.  Not used as much in the past decade due to the health risks with Cadmium.
2. BAg-22; 49% Silver with Manganese.  1260 solidus to 1290 liquidus.  Strongest braze joints.  As strong as Bag-3 and Cadmium free.  A bit harder to use.  Brazes pretty much like the other alloys but it does have a tendency to form little nodules or lumps.
3. BAg-24; 50% Silver and Cadmium free.  1220 solidus to 1305 liquidus.   About 30 to 40% weaker than the above alloys.  Takes a little more heat.  When it does get to temperature it wants to run faster and farther.
4. Bag-8; 56% with Tin.  1145 solidus to 1205 liquidus.  Very easy to use but a comparatively weak alloy.

Forms of Braze Alloy

These alloys come as a paste, a ribbon or wire.

1. Paste is easiest to use and most expensive.  It is flux and alloy mixed together with a binder to prevent the heavier alloy particles from separating to the bottom.   You squeeze a little paste between the two parts and heat them.
2. Ribbon is a thin strip.  If you use ribbon it should be no more than 0.005” thick and 0.003” is preferable.  You dip the ribbon in flux; put it between the two parts and heat.
3. Rod or wire.   Comes in various diameters and is generally least expensive.  You flux both halves by dipping or painting.   You can put a bit of wire between the two halves and apply heat.  You can also apply heat until it is read then touch the assembly with wire or rod.  If it is hot enough the alloy will flow into the joint.

Flux

You will need flux with ribbon or wire and extra fluxing with paste is a good idea.   Black flux is more forgiving than white flux.   Flux has some cleaning and oxide removal properties but best not to count on it.  Start with clean parts instead.  Flux is primarily an oxygen interceptor so that the parts and braze alloy do not oxidize.

Grind the Blade

Each broken end of the blade should be ground to an angle of about 45 degrees to provide a scarf joint. This process also cleans the damaged ends. Quickly running it across the bench grinder is enough to do this.  A Dremel tool fitted with a small drum sander works well and is easier to control.

Grinding the ends with the teeth opposite to each other and grind both at once.  Allow about a half inch for the lap joint.

You want to end up with the two ends looking something like this.  A lap joint will be much stronger than a butt joint and you can do all your brazing from one side.

Once ground, keep the steel free of any oil and dirt.

Fixturing

The blade ends should be clamped onto a steel jig using toolmakers clamps, or something that will not overheat and burn or melt.  Make sure this joint is aligned the way you want it.

These pictures will give you an idea.  You can just use a flat piece of steel and see how that works for you.   You want to hold the two halves in place without crushing any teeth.   The steel will want to move a little as it gets hot.  Be ready for it.

Heating

If using wire coat each end of the blade with paste flux and heat the whole of the joint to bright cherry red before applying the solder.  With the blade still bright cherry red gently pinch the joint together with a pair of pliers.  This provides for a flat, even joint.  Gently, gently, gently.  Do not squeeze all the braze alloy out.  If you have 0.001” to 0.002” braze alloy between the two parts it should be right.   Less is o.k. as long as there is still some braze alloy.

Brazing the blade should be quick and easy.   The blade is thin so it won’t a lot of heat to get it to temperature.   If you use a paste flux the water will boil out.  Then nothing.  Then the flux will bubble up and look pretty bad.  Then the flux clears up and braze alloy melts.

Remember the difference between heat and temperature.  Flux gets used up by a combination of heat and time.  Too much heat, taking too long to get silver braze to melt will cause flux to get used up dissolving oxides and go black and no longer work and also more time for blade to expand and the overlap joint to slip over it self getting a thicker joint with possible thin spots on both sides after grinding back.

Alternate Heating Method

You can also heat a pair of brazing tongs bright red and clamp the two parts together.  The red-hot tongs wiIl heat the blade and melt the solder. Keep the tongs clamped on the joint until they turn black.

Inspection

Check to see that you have a nice even line of braze alloy all the way around the joint.   If you have to you can reflux, reheat and apply more braze alloy.   It should be the color of the original alloy without too many holes in it.   Holes mean you boiled the zinc out of it.

Annealing

After you have heated the joint enough to get the braze alloy to flow, back off the heat and let it cool a bit.  A short annealing carbon steel is necessary for high speed steel. The high speed steel blade joint is re-heated to slightly below the melting point of the solder and the torch’s flame backed away allowing the joint to slowly cool. The process is repeated two or three more times taking the temperature to a lower point each time and allowing the blade to cool slowly.  File a piece of un-annealed steel and the file will slide.  On the annealed steel it should bite.

Cleaning Flux

After the blade has cooled to room temperature, remove the excess flux by brushing under warm water.   If you used enough flux it will be very dark and easy to remove once it has cooled.  If the flux is clear and hard to remove you burnt it all up.   Use more next time.

Grind or File Flat and Smooth

File or grind the blob of solder off flush with the surface of the blade and flat off the blade edges to allow smooth running of the blade through the saw guides.

**Notes**

1. Do not use wood for a fixture for brazing.  Brazing typically takes place above 800 F.   Wood burns around 1200 – 1400 F.  The most common braze alloys for this work (49, 50 or 56% Silver) melt around 1300F.  An oxy -acetylene torch runs at 4,000 F +.   Can’t see where using wood for a fixture is a good idea.
2. Do not cut the blade near the original weld unless you cut the weld out entirely.   Stay far enough away so that the weld from the factory does not get too hot to touch.  Remember that the clamps will serve as a thermal barrier to some extent.